The narrow hulls porpoise, slapping noisily through the chop stirred up by a restless wind. Stray waves wash sloppily over six sqare feet of canvas, curious fingers of heavy blue lake water that slosh, bored, around our legs before trickling away over the rudders. My freezing fingers clutch the tiller bar more tightly as the boat picks up speed and the dagger boards begin to sing, thrumming as they vibrate through the water at fifteen knots, maybe, but the lee hull isn’t submerged yet; we can edge a little more speed out of her. Keeping my eyes fixed on the nose of the pontoon, I pull the catamaran until she’s running at a 45-degree angle to the wind, and the hum increases in volume as the wash spilling over the rudders churns white. The pitching slows and then stops as the sails stiffen and the boat begins to cut through the waves instead of rocking over and under them. The sensation of controlled, powerful motion roils together with the rush of wind and the roar of the wake and the song of the dagger boards, roiling into a heady mixture of sweet, efficient intoxication. I lift my eyes to the dome of swishy cloud and smile, thrilled. Without warning, the hull dips, the surface of the water falls up to meet and swallow me, and suddenly the world hangs on an edge, the thrum stops and the sails swing and I shove the tiller away, panicking at the loss of control, spinning the boat on a dime, into the wind and a sudden halt. I turn to my dad, wide-eyed, and he chuckles, tugging at the mainsheet. “Guess we should spill some wind, hey?”
My first entry from home comes saturated with the sound of rain on a gravel road and the smell of wet pine.
I left the city and a rising contempt somewhere in the Chicago airport, feeling tears prick my eyes when I touched down between cornfields. Twelve hours later I was well on my way to the Upper Peninsula and out of reach, spinning over gently curving highways that led me between cherry orchards and rivers, over the Bridge and along the sandy dunes and inexorably North, until I found a tiny Lake Superior town that seemed to hold everything I could ever want: wild blueberries and apples, which we picked by the gallon, wilder beaches, where 15-foot swells rocked barren dunes and railed against stubborn breakwalls, icy waterfalls whose heavy streams washed away the disbelief I’d learned while away, careful trees under which to sleep away our freshwater exhaustion, and two housefuls of friends and families all mixed up into a tender frenzy of raised voices and comfort food.
It took a day or two to get the feeling of being clean back, to scrub the city grime from my fingernails and to adjust my sight to long, living distances again. I can’t say enough about the beauty of this place, about all the different colors in a plank of a weathered dock, about the impossibly clear water or the sweet yellow sand, about the way fall is coming already and the difference that it makes in different parts of my gorgeous state. Here, oaks and pines curve over me and I feel safe, dashing barefoot between tiny houses that I know and have known; I can sleep at night, covered with the sound of the rain and the steady love of my relations. Here is a sense of place and the possibility of peace.
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